Might very possibly save your life on a snowy day.
Life is too crazy to keep posting in the usual way, so I´ve decided that at least until the holidays are over, I´m going to change things a little around here. Instead of a weekly, if that, post with a recipe, I´ll post more often, just drawings done on the iPad and uploaded via Flickr. That way I still get to have fun, and don´t feel I´m neglecting any of you dear readers. I hope you enjoy these little digital doodles. Here´s my inspiration.
Lots of it these days. All it takes is a sachet of powdered gelatin and good fresh juice from a carton. With custard or thick yogurt it becomes ridiculously comforting and luxurious.
On Monday morning I spotted a bottle of goat´s milk in the discounted section of my supermarket. 
I´ve written before about poached chicken, and I stand by my earlier post. Yes, poached chicken sounds bland and boring, and well, nobody´s saying that it´s a hot ticket or an exotic wild thing. It´s a blank slate of sorts, and nobody will object to having some around the house. And although the method in the other post is perfectly fine, poaching a whole chicken in a pressure cooker makes much more sense.
And by that I mean my local supermarket, not the green fields of the apple-cheeked farmer.
Every two or three weeks I go to a big Sainsbury´s and fill a cart to teetering point with everything from nappies to canned tomatoes to barley cous cous and white miso and tubs of ice cream.
But I have a fridge the size of a Kelly bag, and can´t stock up on a lot of fresh produce, so every other day sees me trudging up to the Co-op for milk, or eggs, or salad or bread.
The Co-op is small and more expensive, but it´s right here.
And that´s how I´ve devised the new market-driven cuisine for the suburban north pole housewife. You can´t do that thing of "choose what looks good", because everything looks the same. The bright lights and the plastic in a supermarket make it almost impossible to tell. Instead, I buy almost everything that has a "reduced to clear" sticker.
This may seem extreme, but isn´t, really.
I find that fruit becomes edible about three or four days after its sell by date. Salad may be a little wonky and so I might avoid it, but root vegetables, cabbage, broccoli and tomatoes,? Perfectly fine, thank you.
My haul yesterday: a bag of watercress, two boxes of huge mushrooms, a bag of "british stew vegetables", two basil plants, a packet of courgettes and a bag of apples.
The basil was quickly whizzed into a pesto and frozen in little cubes. Half the watercress was put into some dumplings that disintegrated into a pot of chicken soup but were still delicious. The apples became applesauce for Pepe. The stew vegetables I guess will go into a stew at some point, but they´ll keep for a few days. The mushrooms I will bake with garlic butter, and the courgettes will probably end up in a pisto of some sort.
That´s not a bad lot. Complemented with the freezer and the store cupboard, I could feed us all through the week without leaving the house.
Except that I´m running out of milk already.
Skink is what they call beef shin here. It´s the cheapest cut at my local butcher´s, and a very good one, too, beefy and strong and just the thing for a stew with a lot of sauce. Even better, you get to scoop out the marrow from the bones, and better still, I brook no argument; in this house, the marrow is for me, la mamma.
In a world where food is more than just food, and people watch cooking shows before ordering takeout, the kitchen is the scene for the new moral battle, and food writers more often than not come across as a little preachy. There´s the fire and brimstone brigade, who see hell in a grain of wheat, eternity in a goji berry. Or the new Puritans, who will have you Grow Your Own, lest the carbon footprint turn the food to ashes in your mouth.
Wether the concern is ecological or medical, there´s a whole lot of tut tutting going on, and in all this Nigella preetends to be the seductive temptress, but don't be fooled; she's not the Venus in Tannhäuser, but the whole singing and dancing chorus of nuns from "The sound of music". With her, it's all about Love. The hills are alive, the supermarkets chock full of delectable ingredients, all year round, and if your eggs are organic so much the better, but don't knock the marshmallows or the green food colouring. Just cook the food, enjoy it, move on.Bless her.
I´ve tried two recipes from the new book already. At first I wasn´t very convinced. It seemed to me that she´d done a sort of How to Eat for dummies, but now I´m won over. Yes, a lot of the recipes are versions of older ones in other of her books, but that makes a lot of sense. People change, lifestyles change, you don´t do things the same way all the time. And if you may find it hard to beleive that the 1999 Nigella, working at a newspaper and with two small children, found time to make stock from scratch, while the 2010 celebrity, surrounded by assistants, insists on ready made, well, who cares? The important thing is that the recipes are pared down and easier, but still real food, and still delicious.
Here are the duck legs I made yesterday. They were crisp and tender and flavourful, but the star were the potatoes. Brimming with duck fat and shatteringly crunchy, they are by far the best roast potatoes anybody´s ever had. If you´ve had better, I envy you. Or rather, I don´t, because you can´t have long to live. But hey, the obesity epidemic owes little to duck legs, so go ahead and try them.
Roast duck legs and potatoes
Preheat the oven to 200ºC
Salt and put the duck legs, skin side down, on a roasting tin or a skillet that can go in the oven, and that will fit them and a couple of cut up potatoes.
Let them brown slowly. This is so the duck begins to release fat, which is important for the potatoes. Don´t skip this step.
While this happens, cut up two biggish potatoes into chunks, but don´t peel.
Now take the duck legs out of the pan/tray and chuck the potatoes in. Turn them so they´re slicked in the fat, but don´t worry too much as there´s plenty more where that came from. Salt.
Nigella adds thyme but I didn´t have any.
Now put the duck on top, put the tray in the oven and leave it there for two hours.
If you remember, shake it a bit from time to time.
Its´done when the duck is crunchy and brown and the potatoes are crisp and deep burnished bronze.
I served it with salad, but of course peas, and apple sauce would be very very good here.
